Sunday, 23 April 2017

The Journey Home - Part 4: Ascension

It was nice to see KEP, Signy was spectacular and the Falklands incredible. But whilst they, and BI of course, come together to make such an amazing experience the sunny days were few and far between! So we needed some sun (34°C of it!! We melted!!) on the way home and the most direct flight home from the Falklands just happens to be via Ascension Island; so it would’ve been rude not to visit!
Taking a stroll through a cloud forest
Sandy beaches and sun would’ve been enough to relax in for a few days. But the Ascension is an amazing wildlife island all on its own and so Lucy, James and I were treated to a final few days of exciting sights together.
Two weeks we were walking across a glacier, now its a lava flow..... crazy!
Ascension is famous for its land crabs, and whilst it wasn’t the season for them in mass numbers we did see quite a few around in the early mornings coming out after a night of rain. They are real characters lifting their claws up at anything that goes by.
Land crabs are feisty little guys
Shore crabs make sure not all the attention is given to their land cousins
It is not just crabs to look out for though, Ascension is a very important breeding site for green turtles and spending some time in the late evening sitting on a beach watching them come ashore and dig their nests to lay eggs is something I will never forget. Alongside the adults laying eggs are the hatchlings escaping their eggs and sprinting down the shore to the ocean for the first time. Witnessing the turtles like this is something that will always amaze me!
A green turtle swims along (no photos of them nesting at night, but seeing them at any stage is still great)
A particular highlight for me though was the Galapagos sharks (yes, they have a range much larger than the name suggests)! I had never seen sharks, of any species, before so to stand on a pier and see a dozen sharks swimming around in the shallows was incredible!! Unfortunately though no photos were possible on this occasion, but you always have a reason for going back!
Well, they may not be the sharks, but sergeant major fish in the rockpools are still cool
Of course, seeing turtles, sharks and crabs was spectacular, but where there is an island with the right terrain there are seabirds……. and Ascension has some amazing species! In total we saw 8 different species and were lucky enough to be able to work with them as volunteers for the Ascensions Seabird Conservation Scientist, Eliza.
Switching the sub-antarctic for sweltering heat, anywhere there are seabirds needs investigating!
A masked booby colony, the first species we came across
The masked booby area stretches across the landscape
These birds are closely related to our gannets and you can tell just from the look of them
They have a very striking look to them
The masked booby nest develops into a circle of small stones surrounded by a circle of poo!
Due to the tropical nature of the island, whilst there is a main breeding season the birds can nest at any time. This means that all stages of the breeding cycle can be seen at the same time, from egg incubation...
...to small chicks...
...to fluffy little ones, starting to get as big as their parents...
...to ready to fledge!
After the masked booby we saw another species, the brown booby
The browns lay 2 eggs as opposed to the 1 of the masked
A brown booby flies overhead with an adult frigatebird in the background
After seeing the two species of booby the sky became full of another species...
....frigatebirds!
The majority of those flying around are chicks taking to the skies for the first time
It is amazing to see these birds flying around...
...and just above our heads no less!
A frigatebird chick about ready to fledge
Some of the chicks are still smaller and fluffy, but the adults are feeding them up well
They look funky when fluffy and grow up into very striking birds
Growing up in the heat can get quite tough in the middle of the day, but these birds do well
An adult female still broods a smaller chick
Adult males have a very noticeable red patch to the throat, this inflates to a large size during mating rituals
After the frigatebirds we moved on to see some a couple of species of noddy...
...brown noddy...
...and black noddy
Looking down towards the base of the cliffs showed us another species as well, the yellow-billed tropicbird!
Fairy terns also put in an appearance, darting around the rocks and being very curious coming to see who we are
Another day of seabird work, another new species to see, sooty terns!
There were tens of thousands of these little birds around, and quite a few were very curious as we walked along the paths around the colonies...
...peering down at us...
...flying past...
...and drifting around getting a good look...
...and making sure we knew they were around! As if the noise weren't enough :)
But ultimately, they are more interested in neighbours of their own species
Going to work in the colony shows that the sooty tern season is just starting...
...each bird looks after its single egg...
...just a reminder that I am leaving the end of the antarctic summer to join the summer in the northern hemisphere and begin working in a new seabird season. Isle of May, here I come!
Sadly, on the 8th April it was time for James and I to leave, Lucy staying on for a few more days. This meant that after 501 days of working together every day the three of us would be finishing our time as a research team! I couldn’t have asked for a better group and I will always be thankful to Lucy, James and all my BAS friends for such an amazing experience.


500 days together and still smiling :) a brilliant zoology team and amazing friends, thank you Luce and Jamins!
But after so much time away it is amazing to say that I am back home with family, friends and most importantly my very understanding girlfriend Nicci. Better yet, the next experience will be working for the Centre for Ecology and Hydrology on the Isle of May this summer with Nicci as we join their amazing seabird team researching puffins, shags, gulls, guillemots……….. and razorbills!!!!!!

The Journey Home - Part 3: Falklands

The RRS Ernest Shackleton got in to the Falklands on the 25th March, bringing me back out of the Antarctic territories for the first time in 499days! What a journey, what a job, what an experience!! But that wasn’t the end as Lucy, James and I arranged to stay and investigate what the Falklands has to offer and we were rewarded by some great sights and some brilliant people.
A Falkland thrush
Stanley is the main town on West Falklands and we stayed there for the first few days enjoying our first retail therapy in a long time! We also checked out the local wildlife, and wow was it impressive! The highlight was a day when James went to find dolphins whilst Luce and I went to see a rockhopper penguin colony. It was brilliant to see a new species of penguin for us, and to see so many jumping around at impressive speed was a spectacular sight.
A new colony, a new species for us, it was great to see the rockhoppers!
Looking across the rockhopper colony
Some of them looked really smart, others really scruffy, the perils of the moulting season!
Funky little penguins
They pair up still, bonding at the end of the season
Even in a visit for just a couple hours we could see what characters these guys are
That hairstyle is very striking
As with all the penguins I have been lucky enough to see and work with, the rockhoppers are just amazing to watch
After such sights from our time in Stanley it would be hard to get better, but we did just that! Going to stay at a lovely little cottage at Elephant Beach Farm and investigating around Cape Dolphin gave us so much! Penguins, vultures and other birds, sea lions, dolphins and whales. If anyone ever goes through the Falklands then this is the place to have a weekend away at, whilst no photos could do this part of the trip justice I’m going to try:
Rock shags
Night heron
Kelp gulls on the beach
A dolphin gull decides to test if seaweed is food, in this case it isn't!
Steamer ducks going for a paddle
Steamer ducks have flightless and flying variations, these ones were flightless
Who made those tracks in the sand?...
...gentoos! These guys are everywhere but I never tire of seeing them :)
What makes these burrows on the Falklands?...
...it's penguins!! Magellanic penguins to be precise
Nesting underground protects the eggs and chicks from aerial predators
Magellanics are sweet little penguins
There is something strange about seeing penguins popping out of the ground in fields full of geese
A different type of lion safari - a sea lion safari!
Sea lions are great to see, certainly very big and the males in particular look bear or lion like with that coat
Some of the big old guys are calm at this time of year, but earlier in the breeding season are very territorial
Just having a scratch...
...and a yawn, showing off those big teeth!
Quite different to fur seals, these sea lions were a huge bonus for us to be able to see on the way home
A group of females hangs out on the rocky shore
At this time of year many females are still raising their pups...
...pups that are just as cute...
...playful...
...and lazy as the fur seal pups that we are used to!
Peale's dolphins; unfortunately the sei whales were too far away for me to photograph, but seeing these dolphins closer in to shore looking for food in the shallows was brilliant
Turkey vultures are a regular sight, patrolling the skies
An adult resting with a youngster taking off in the background
Vultures can also be seen hanging out around colonies of penguins...
...sea lions colonies...
...and shag colonies, all to scavenge any scraps of food
It is great to see large birds of prey again
Red-backed hawk
Striated caracara
Barn owls have made it to the Falklands, most likely by roosting on ships
This terrain is not the same as the giant petrel study area on BI...
...but that doesn't mean I can't see a few of my study species one last time :) a small colony of southern geeps has taken to Cape Dolphin as a nesting site
A few weeks away from fledging still, but the wings are getting a workout